Lamu's tourism woes date back to 2011, when a British tourist couple were kidnapped on the small island of Kiwayu, near the Kenya-Somalia border.
David Tebbutt, 58, and his wife Judith were enjoying a dream holiday at the Kiwayu Safari Village Resort in Lamu East when David was killed and his wife taken hostage.
This marked the beginning of a long fight against the infiltration of Al-Shabaab terrorists through the region.
Judith was released six months later after their son paid ransom to the Somalia-based terrorists.
Before that, Lamu was a peaceful haven where anyone could travel anywhere at any time.
Tourism was booming, with people from all over the world flocking to its islands every year.
Locals participate in the Donkey Race Competition during Lamu Cultural Festivals on December 2, 2023.
Photo credit: Kevin Odit | Nation Media Group
Since the first attack on foreign tourists, and many more on the mainland in the years that followed, travel advisories have been issued by several foreign countries including the US and UK, most of which are still active to date.
This situation led to the closure of major hotels in the area.
In September 2015, the national government launched a multi-agency security operation, dubbed Linda Boni, with the main objective of flushing out Al-Shabaab militants believed to be hiding in the dense Boni Forest.
The operation, which is still ongoing, has been variously renamed to the Boni Enclave Campaign, Operation Fagia Msitu, and now Operation Amani Boni.
It is being conducted in an effort to stabilise Lamu and parts of Tana River, Garissa and Kilifi counties, which border the expansive Boni Forest towards the Kenya-Somalia border.
The operation is being conducted by the Kenya Defense Forces (KDF) in conjunction with the National Police Service and the National Government Administration Officers. KDF is the designated lead agency.
Ten years on, the efforts by the security agencies appear to have borne fruit.
The current stable security situation has boosted confidence in the tourism sector.
Fish caught during this year's Lamu Fishing Competition on November 30, 2024.
Photo credit: Kalume Kazungu | Nation
Lamu Tourism Association Chairperson, Fridah Njeri, cited the years between 2011 and 2018 as the worst in in terms of tourism performance.
Ms Njeri noted that many local and international tourists avoided visiting the region altogether for fear of their lives.
She urged countries that still have active travel advisories for Lamu to lift them.
“Lamu is a safe tourist destination. With the existing peace and well-coordinated promotional activities, I believe Lamu's tourism industry has the potential to record a 100 percent recovery in the coming years,” said Ms Njeri.
As a United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organisation (Unesco) World Heritage site, Lamu Old Town has been an attraction with its rich history and culture.
Tourism stakeholders have stepped up their marketing strategies for the Lamu Islands, including pristine beaches and exquisite hotels.
“We’ve introduced strategies to market Lamu as the perfect destination for weddings and honeymoons for both local and international tourists. In recent years, there has been increased demand for wedding and honeymoon services by tourists visiting various hotels and lodges here,” said Ms Njeri.
The increase in tourism has since attracted airlines to the region, especially as road travel is still restricted to daytime for security reasons.
In a gazette notice published on December 13, Lamu was one of the areas outside major towns where several airlines this year applied to the Kenya Civil Aviation Authority for licence renewals or variations to operate on the route.
The airlines include Kenya Airways, Mombasa Air Safari Limited, Bluebird Aviation Limited, Jetways Airlines Limited, Skyward Express Limited, Encomm Aviation and Airvan Kenya Limited.
Lamu Tourism, Culture, Trade, and Investment Executive, Aisha Miraj, noted that the national government's security efforts have led to great strides in the tourism sector.
Highlighting the successes of the 2024 Lamu Cultural Festival in November, Ms Miraj said the three-day fete attracted over 35,000 guests and tourists, both domestic and international.
“We’re happy that tourism in this place has roared back to life. This is because insecurity incidents contributed by Al-Shabaab from Somalia have gone low. It has been almost a year of peace without any terrorist attacks or threats in Lamu. This has greatly helped to revive the tourism industry. Once a destination is safe, tourism automatically thrives,” said Ms Miraj.
Lamu Municipality Tourism Board chairman Abdallah Fadhil, who is also an investor in the tourism sector, said that during the dark periods when al-Shabaab carried out attacks almost every week, tourism output dropped to as low as 20 percent.
Mr Fadhil said that although most of the attacks took place in the mainland areas of Mpeketoni, Witu, Hindi, Boni Forest and the Kenya-Somalia border, far from Lamu Island, such incidents would still tarnish the image of the islands, which are the region's tourist hub.
Boats at the Lamu seafront.
Photo credit: File | Nation Media Group
But with the return of peace and stability to the affected areas, Mr Fadhil admits that the tourism sector is now operating at over 70 percent capacity.
“The return of peace has worked to the advantage of our tourism industry. We thank the efforts of our security agencies, particularly the Deputy President Professor Kindiki Kithure. During his tenure as Interior Cabinet Secretary, he would visit all security volatile areas of Lamu. This resulted in strengthened efforts to fight and neutralise Al-Shabaab,” said Mr Fadhil.
Lamu County Commissioner Wesley Koech confirmed that terrorist attacks had been reduced in recent years.
Mr Koech cited the aggressive steps taken by the State to ensure peace and stability in Lamu, including through the completion of crucial amenities, particularly roads and the Lamu Port and its related infrastructure.
The 135-kilometre Lamu-Witu-Garsen road, which cost Sh10.8 billion, was completed and inaugurated by retired President Uhuru Kenyatta on May 20, 2021, the same day he officially opened the first berth at the Sh310 billion new port of Lamu in Kililana, Lamu West.
Before the road was completed, Al-Shabaab militants would ambush passenger and security vehicles, attacking and killing civilians and security agents at will.
But since the road was completed, such attacks have been curtailed.
Mr Koech said they had deployed various security units to guard specific points along the Lamu-Witu-Garsen route that were previously known to be terror hotspots.
“In fact, each security unit has been assigned a specific location to guard and monitor along the Lamu-Witu-Garsen route. You’ll always spot our men in uniform keeping vigil. This has helped to seal any loophole that the enemy used to carry out attacks. Our happiness is always ensuring citizens and property are fully protected all through,” said Mr Koech.
A section of Shela in Lamu County where only the elite own property and apartments.
Photo credit: Kalume Kazungu | Nation
Lamu Central Sub-County Police Commander, William Ngombo said that in order to boost tourist confidence and ensure that Lamu Island continues to enjoy peace, they have intensified efforts to curb any other internal insecurity incidents such as machete-wielding gangs.
“Today, locals, guests and tourists live happily in their homes and residences. Security patrols have been intensified within and outside the island. The Boni forest operation has greatly helped. The enemy used to use the forest as a training camp and a route to access and attack Lamu villages but that has in recent years completely been sealed off. There’s no fear of attacks from Al-Shabaab,” said Mr Ngombo.